Competing on Aesthetics

John,

I'm thinking of importing polo shirts with collars that are permanently turned up (with a plastic support in the collar) and fluorescent colors used tastefully. They would be top class quality materials and tailoring.

Click on for the full discussion.

How would I research this with the stores? In the class you gave the example of a 'better ski sweater', which I assume has some utilitarian value, rather than simply the aesthetic value of the polo shirts. I see how you follow the process for a product with utilitarian value, but with something like shirts or glassware I think it would be impossible to describe how your product solves a problem or provides a benefit, no? [Actually for glassware if you have a new way of putting designs on glass, or a process, or whatever like you mentioned in the vids it's simliar to the utility idea]. But how does the process translate for a product with aesthetic value, or a line of products with a particular feel (such as a new clothing line with a 'medievil' theme?)

Firstly I've gone in and asked for it, spoken to the owners/buyers and the collars don't exist, and the fluorescent designs are different from what I'm thinking of. I haven't alluded to the idea of making it myself.

-Should I move from simply customer to possible supplier and bring in designs on paper next? Should I bring in a mock up of the collar I've stitched together and say "I believe if I imported this you would buy it, would I be correct"?
-Or should I remain only as a customer (not possible supplier) and say nothing of having produced a mock up/designs or thoughts of having it produced and keep describing what I want until someone says somehting like 'good idea, doesn't exist'?

Thanks very much!

Duncan.


John Spiers wrote:

Yes.

In your note the first half you veer off course, and the second half you get back on course.  You're getting closer!

You are not more selling anything than you are making anything, so it would be absurd to allude to making it yourself.  I realize this was a figure of speech, but it betrays an error in thinking on your part.  Back to the re-education camps for you!  So stay away from those two aspects.

When you say "clothes with a medieval theme"  you are selling features (which any salesman will tell you is an error)... when you say "thick black wool shirts made from horsehair with high collars that keep out the wind and remind you of your sins"  (instead of "medieval') you are describing benefits you seek...  stay within the narrow range...

As far as aestethics it will be up to a designer, since that part is art, and the designer will work with the store feedback to your idea.

Stay as a customer until you hear "good idea, does not exist."  then go get a real live sample.  (the "I believe if I import this you will buy it is a distant plan B, only used to test what I believe is always a mistaken idea.)

make sense?  

John

Dear john,

OK now I'm clear on when to reveal my intentions and when not to - only after you hear the words 'good idea, doesn't exist' or similar.

Regarding what value I'm providing- How can you stay within the narrow range and describe benefits you seek when you're testing the reaction to a new design of polo shirt, or new glassware, for example? They don't really have benefits, they just look different, don't they?

Permanently folded up collars
Fluorescents
on high quality shirts
with a 'travel/explorer/jetset' feel to the line

It seems these things are expressed through the design. And there's no windbreaker collar (benefit) or anything like that. Am I innovating in any way then, or simply becoming a designer? How is this different to creating glassware, or picture frames with shells? Basically... what is the benefit that I can test the reaction to in order to get the response 'good idea, doesn't exist?'

They don't really have benefits, they just look different, don't they?

Duncan

Dear Duncan,

OK... now pause and reflect...  mere superficial differences, of no consequence...?  then why in life do people kill and destroy and build and change so much over so little?  What if what you are minimizing is actually almost entirely the point?  I may be exaggerating to make my point, but why do we like food and gardens and decorations that merely look different.  there is no accoounting for taste, look at who we fall in love with, when in fact it is usually a matter of "looks."  The benefits have to be intrinsic, but the "looks" are critical, which is why we hire designers.

John

Dear John,

I've asked the owners/buyers if they could check with their suppliers whether these exist (leverage the distribution chain) but they say we carry x, y z brands and they don't have it, or z brand does something similar (and then I explain how my idea is different). I'm thinking that I might need to show my hand - that I could supply them with these shirts - to motivate them to work with me and check with their suppliers.

I wouldn't say aesthetics aren't important......... But what do we say when we approach the stores when the value is mostly in the aesthetics? This is the designer's job to provide the aesthetics. But we approach the retailers before we approach the designers. How do we test with the retailers without designs first then?

Also, something you say puzzles me. The aesthetics are provided by the designer, as you say. In a product where the value is mostly in the aesthetics, where do we provide the value then? More attractive polo shirts, or shell encrusted picture frames for example don't really solve a problem people have... but for sure they enhance people's lives through their aesthetic qualities....   Those aesthetics are the designer's realm... so what are we doing? Is it the high level idea where we provide the value?... i.e. put shells in picture frames... or use fluorescents on polos... is that our value? I'm guessing so... BUT! because the value is still in the execution of that idea, the aesthetics, sometimes I think you can't test without going along with designs/mock up/proto-type. Sometimes it's not possible to 'get' the idea without something tangible, when it's aesthetic value, rather than solving a problem. Do you agree?

Thanks! I feel if I can figure out a way to test ideas that are based on aesthetics I can make quicker progress.

Duncan

Hi John,

Basically I'm eagerly awaiting your answer because it's a quesiton which I've only just been able to articulate after months as I was constantly bugged by a whole class of products (basically anything that's simply nice to look at) that I couldn't fit into the model in my mind. Maybe a lack of clarity is putting you off answering, so I have distilled it down to two questions-

- How does a retailer respond "good idea, doesn't exist" to a product whose value is in the aesthetics (thinking ornaments, furniture with no special features, clothing, crockery) where there is no new utility benefit- the only difference is in the design?

- For such a product, how do you get that reaction before getting designs (e.g. what did you say to the retailer to get that reaction to your idea of a glass candle, as in the book?)

Basically I've convinced the buyers over the phone that my polo shirts are different... but in polo shirts it's difficult to solve a 'problem' as such, so really I'm providing aesthetic value, or good designs... it's not like I'm shopping for a vented polo shirt that keeps you cool... They say they want to see designs "The brand would have to be fully presented to the buyers. To arrange a meeting, we must first see some pictures or a look book of the product to get an idea of where the line would sit."

Hopefully it's just a case of paralysis by analysis with these questions........ By using common sense, and given the fact that every business is different, I would say I'd have to present designs first before I get to milestone #2. And isn't fashion different anyway... Ralph Lauren did basically start doing the functions of a designer, although his main value was the overarching concept, and as you say he doesn't do the design work today. Perhaps I should stop trying to stick too rigidly to the plan.

Highly value your input,

Thanks, Duncan.


On Dec 2, 2008, at 3:55 AM, Duncan wrote:

 so I have distilled it down to two questions-

- How does a retailer respond "good idea, doesn't exist" to a product whose value is in the aesthetics (thinking ornaments, furniture with no special features, clothing, crockery) where there is no new utility benefit- the only difference is in the design?

John Answer: I thought I answered this... but let me try again...I drive by casinos and am mystified as to why the parking lots are full.  I have no idea what value any one places in gambling.  It does not matter if YOU can perceive the value... it is the customer who matters.  Why do you have to understand?***


Duncan question: For such a product, how do you get that reaction before getting designs (e.g. what did you say to the retailer to get that reaction to your idea of a glass candle, as in the book?)

John Answer: Glass candle was easier since the retailers asked for it...  it was a follow on to a product that I had developed, glassware, which retailers said was a good idea and does not exist...***


Duncan question: Basically I've convinced the buyers over the phone that my polo shirts are different... but in polo shirts it's difficult to solve a 'problem' as such, so really I'm providing aesthetic value, or good designs... it's not like I'm shopping for a vented polo shirt that keeps you cool... They say they want to see designs "The brand would have to be fully presented to the buyers. To arrange a meeting, we must first see some pictures or a look book of the product to get an idea of where the line would sit."

John Answer: I think you are making too much of this...  the retailers either say it is a good idea and does not exist or they don't... if they don't, you are free to put a shirt in front of them and see what they say.  If they lke it, proceed... if not, you can redesign based on their feedback, and see if that works...***


Duncan question: Hopefully it's just a case of paralysis by analysis with these questions....

John Answer: I don't think you care enough about polo shirts to move ahead...***


Duncan question: . By using common sense, and given the fact that every business is different, I would say I'd have to present designs first before I get to milestone #2. And isn't fashion different anyway... Ralph Lauren did basically start doing the functions of a designer, although his main value was the overarching concept, and as you say he doesn't do the design work today. Perhaps I should stop trying to stick too rigidly to the plan.

John Answer: Or try the plan... find something you really care about... back to those videos... any doubt all three are not already out of biz?  Fashion is no different in this... jewelry, wine... it is all bout solving problems...***

John

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